Le Mercury, Islington

Fireplace AND candles. Result!

Le Mercury never fails to disappoint. An intimate and friendly bistro-style eatery spread over three creaky floors, each room is lit solely (or thereabouts) by candles, and its warm and relaxed glow is a welcome relief from hustle and bustle of Upper Street.

The menu is fairly small, but there is always a decent-enough selection of hearty meat and seafood dishes, and mopping up every last tasty morsel with bread is definitely the order of the day here.

The last time I went there I left with a full tummy, a slight slur thanks to copious amounts of wine and bubbles, and a big smile on my face as every single member of staff thanked each and every one of us on our way out.

Cosy rating: 8/10 - for such a prominent location I really respect they way they've kept things simple and low-key - it would be so easy for them to go down the fine-dining route.

Secret rating: 3/10 - I can't deny it, this is a popular haunt and right on the main road, so do book before you rock up.

Best bits: The value - all starters £3.95, all mains £8.45, all desserts £2.95. Go crazy!

Worst bits: On a busy night it can get rather noisy if they've got some bigger parties dining.